the ingredients glossary

What would nature do? That's the question we asked ourselves when we were creating the Adaptology range and we discovered some incredible answers. Nature knows how to defend itself against dryness, UV radiation, hot and cold temperatures and pollution and it's this biocorrecting brilliance that we have brought into our range.

Our search for the most effective natural skincare ingredients has taken us to the extreme ends of the earth, where we have found high performance adaptogenic plants that thrive in stressful conditions and we think it's time you met the team.

ADAPTOGEN PROTECTION COMPLEX

Good things come in threes. Especially in our Adaptogen Protection Complex. Ectoin. Wild Indigo. Ashwagandha. All three help to protect your skin, and they work wonders as a skin superhero team.

Ashwagandha is a powerhouse packed with antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds that help protect the skin against UV light and environmental pollutants. Wild Indigo is the calming influence that breaks down cortisol from stress and protects skin against damage. Ectoin is the survivor which protects and restores your skin barrier to help regulate hydration.

The results: Our Adaptogen complex defends against pollution, UV, blue light and stress-related ageing.

ANTARCTIC GLYCOPROTEINS

Imagine your superpower was surviving by clinging on to an Antarctic glacier. The bacteria that thrive in these conditions evolved special glycoproteins to protect cell walls from extreme cold and salt. These handily protect human skin, keeping it hydrated. They also increase skin cohesion, stimulating collagen and elastin production.

All things that improve skin smoothness and reduce wrinkles. The results? Glycoproteins reduce wrinkle depth by 44%, boost hydration by up to 45% and naturally protect skin in extreme cold.

Antacrtic Glycoproteins - Adaptoloogy

ASHWAHGHANDA

Ashwagandha or Indian Ginseng was used in Ayurvedic medicine for thousands of years. The name Ashwa is Sanskrit for horse as this adaptogenic powerhouse was associated with youthfulness, vitality, a lustrous complexion, boosted immunity and - you guessed it - the strength of a horse.

More recently it has become a trend ingredient for natural skincare. Ashwagandha contains antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds that help protect the skin from stress caused by UV-light, blue light and environmental pollutants. It reduces the signs of fatigue in favour of a healthy glow by boosting cellular energy and restoring skin vitality.

Ashwaghandha - Adaptoloogy

BAKUCHIOL

Skin ageing can be triggered by UV light (‘photo ageing’). High altitude flowers can help. Bakuchiol is extracted from Babchi seeds - a hardy purple flower native to the Himalayas, where air is thin and UV rays strong. Babchi developed self protective antioxidants to adapt and thrive in these conditions and has been used in Chinese medicine for millennia.

Bakuchiol offers a skin-friendly rival to retinol that avoids irritating sensitive skin. It helps to reduce the appearance of blemishes whilst improving multiple signs of ageing, including wrinkles and skin redness. The results: In clinical tests, improved wrinkle depth, fine lines, pigmentation, elasticity and firmness.

Bakuchiol - Adaptoloogy

BIDENS PILOSA/ BIO RETINOL

Retinol is a form of vitamin A that promotes skin renewal and collagen production, and these help to keep skin looking young as you get older. No wonder retinol became a hit beauty ingredient, marketed in ‘facelift’ creams. The problem is that retinol can be overstimulating and irritate sensitive skin. This is why we use a plant-based bio retinol instead, bringing retinol benefits without the drawbacks.

Our bio retinol comes from Bidens Pilosa - a member of the daisy family, long prized in Chinese medicine. The results? Reduces (by 36%) the appearance of wrinkles, age spots and pigmentation; soothes; supports elasticity and collagen synthesis.

Bidens Pilosa / Bioretinol - Adaptoloogy

BIOMEMETIC LIPIDS

These biomimetic lipids help restore the skin barrier and lock in moisture. They hydrate the skin by 30% in 4 hours and restore the skin barrier by up to 62%. They also firm the skin by 14% and boost elasticity by 15% in 7 days.

A complex of oils designed to mimic the oil profile of healthy young skin, this helps to restore the skin barrier, increasing skin hydration and elasticity and improve firmness.

BLUE TANSY

This ingredient is great for calming inflammation and reducing redness. Blue Tansy comes from a flower known as Moroccan Chamomile. It’s an absolute blessing when it comes to sensitive skin. Funnily enough the flower is yellow, but its oil gets its blue colour from chamazulene which has anti-inflammatory properties that can help with acne and irritated skin conditions. It also is hydrating, nourishing, softening and soothing. Blue Tansy is often used as an heavenly scented aromatherapy oil, associated with anti-anxiety effects.

The results: clinical tests on Blue Tansy oil confirm it contains compounds that are “Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant, Antibiotic”.

Blue Tansy- Adaptoloogy

CBD OIL

CBD oil is associated with calming, healing and pain relief. It has those kinds of effects on skin too. But also has surprising benefits such as reducing excess oil (sebum) production as well as reducing inflammation associated with acne.

CBD is also a powerful antioxidant, that can help avoid harmful free-radical damage. This in turn can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The results: Yes it’s seriously soothing too. One study found CBD oil led to an 86% reduction of itching for patients with skin conditions.

CBD Oil - Adaptology

CERAMIDES

All skin is oily skin. 50% of skin is lipid oils called ceramides. When these are compromised, your skin is losing its protective coating and will dry out easier and becomes sensitive. Plenty of skincare treatments contain oils to help patch up this barrier.

But this ingredient goes one better - it is biomimetic. Meaning that the molecules are identical to the lipids produced by human skin and are particularly suitable for long term protection and repair of sensitive and dry skin. The results? Help restore the skin barrier by up to 80%, hydration by 50%, elasticity by 15%, the appearance of firmness by 14% at 7 days.

CHAGA MUSHROOM

Chaga is a fungus that grows on birch trees. Chaga is bristling with biochemical defenders because of its precarious life as an uninvited guest. You can spot it a mile off as birch bark is white and chaga is black. The reason being that chaga is packed with UV-blocking melanin. Chaga is also richer in antioxidants than superfood berries. Chaga’s adaptogens make it a valued ingredient in traditional medicine.

And more recently skincare. Chaga provides protection against temperature variations, helps restore the skin barrier layer, reduce any signs of redness and sensitivity, strengthen capillaries and reduce persistent redness. The results: in studies people using this chaga extract reported it ‘as effective as a five-day relaxation cure” in mitigating fatigue lines, dark circles and dullness. 85% perceived a health benefit for their skin and 91% reported increased skin comfort.

Chaga Mushroom - Adaptology

CHERIMOYA

Cherimoya was described by Mark Twain as “the most delicious fruit known to man”. Its name in Peruvian means “cold seeds”, as it evolved to survive in the high Andes mountains. Plants adapting to such environments often evolve helpful botanicals - called adaptogens.

Cherimoya’s adaptogens relieve stress in skin, restoring balance and reducing sensitivity. They support the body’s own innate pain and inflammation response, the endocannabinoid system. In other words Cheremoya gives your skin a soothing and calming natural high. The results? Cherimoya reduces redness by 37%, itching by 55% and hypersensitivity by 60%.

Cherimoya - Adaptology

DESERT GLYCOPROTEINS

Ectoin is a natural stress protection molecule evolved by bacteria which survive in the harshest of conditions like Egypt’s Wadi desert and the nearby salt lakes. Ectoin is an amino acid that creates a halo around each cell.

This halo provides protection from UV light, chemicals and irritants. This in turn can reduce premature ageing. It also regulates hydration. Ectoin helps to repair the skin barrier and soothe the appearance of skin irritation. The results? Impressive anti-ageing and hydration benefits, reducing the appearance of wrinkle depth by 23% and skin roughness by 86%.

Desert Glycoprotein - Adaptology

ENZYMES

Mushrooms are all the rage at the moment. And that’s because they act as nature’s bio-innovation lab. Funghi use an incredible range of enzymes to biodegrade tough organic matter. A forest mushroom from Japan called Mucor Miehei produces an enzyme. Scientists discovered this closely mimics enzymes produced by human skin to stimulate renewal.

It matches so closely that it blends in like a ninja. It even adjusts pH to match that of the skin. The result is the gentle peeling away of old skin cells without the irritation caused by harsher exfoliation agents. The results? 20% more skin renewal. Leaving the skin noticeably smoother. It also hydrates the skin, improves brightness and clarity.

Enzymes - Adaptology

FRUCTOSE

There's nothing as naturally sweet as fruit. Fructose, a naturally occurring fruit sugar that can help hydrate the skin. It does this by maintaining moisture levels within the skin.

GLYCERYL GLUCOSIDE

Plants are tougher than they look. Glyceryl Glucoside is the reason why. GG is produced by plants (and other microorganisms) to protect themselves from extreme conditions such as dryness, hot temperatures and extreme UV radiation.

This results in incredible anti-ageing and cell boosting benefits for skin. It helps stimulate cellular renewal, increases elasticity and improves skin smoothness.

HELIANTHUS ANNUUS

Sunshine brings life unto the world. Sunflower oil brings life unto your skincare products. It acts as a stabiliser to enable the amazing adaptogen actives to work.

INULIN

For skin, it can feel like the world is out to get it. Inulin acts as a biocorrective body guard. Taken from Chicory roots, it preserves and protects the skin by rebalancing the microbiota to form a skin barrier.

The results? Increased skin barrier protection, reduced sensitivity, inflammation and itching.

LAMINARIA

Laminaria seaweed forms lush golden forests in salty, shallow, sunlit seabeds. The same conditions where a shipwreck would rust and rot in no time. Laminaria evolved adaptogens to protect its cells with antioxidants and lipid barriers and is rich in stabilizing compounds and vitamins.

These help reduce the appearance of irritation and redness and reinforce the skin barrier, increasing hydration, protecting against radiation and against premature ageing linked with inflammation.

The results? Increased hydration by more than 38% and clinically proven to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and boost firmness and smoothness.

Laminaria Seaweed - Adaptology

MULTI MOLECULAR WEIGHT ACID

Hyaluronic Acid (HA) provides effective hydration. This clear fluid is naturally produced by your body to keep cell tissues moist so you have bags of it already in your skin and eyes. Topping this up is hugely beneficial. The issue with topical application is it can sit on the skins surface, creating a breathable surface barrier. But won't penetrate deeper into the epidermis.

However, in our formulations we use low molecular weight HA along with very low molecular weight HA which can penetrate deeper into the skin. Amping up the hydration, plumping the skin and smoothing wrinkles.

Hyaluronic Acid - Adaptology

NIACINAMIDE

Niacinamide is needed by your skin to make several enzymes (NAD+ and NADP) that are used in reactions that repair damage, make new cells and function in a healthy manner. We get Niacin from vitamin B rich foods - such as tuna, peanuts and avocado - but the body does not naturally store it, so it needs replenishing every day.

Niacinamide provides natural anti-inflammatory and antioxidant protection. Applied to skin it can also increase the production of Ceramides - the lipids that form skin’s protective barrier. Because it is a building block of healthy skin, Niacin has claimed benefits for blemish clearing, minimising enlarged pores, smoothing wrinkles, improving uneven skin tone, diminishing dullness. All signs that your skin has exactly what it needs to find its own natural healthy balance.

The results? 4% Niacinamide further boosts blemish clearing; as well as reducing the appearance of wrinkles by 51%.

Niacinamide - Adaptology

NORTHERN TRUFFLE

Why is sensitive skin so sensitive? Your skin has an inbuilt alarm system. This is super useful to warn of things like sunburn. But this skin alarm - called the TRPV1 receptor - can become over-sensitive and prone to being set off by anything from pollution to cosmetic formulations.

Luckily Northern Truffle has a neural balm which inhibits TRPV1. Leading to zen like skin calm and a healthy balance restored. The results: reduces any signs of skin discomfort and irritation within minutes by up to 100%. Reduces skin reddening by 90%.

Northern Truffle Adaptology

PAPAYA

Papaya originates in the tropical forests of central America. In those steamy conditions anything so sweet and juicy would tend to be eaten alive by microbes. Papaya evolved an anti-microbial enzyme called Papain. This is so great at breaking down large proteins that chefs have been using it to tenderise meat since Mayan times.

Applied to skin, the same fruit enzymes dissolve the bonds that glue dead skin cells to the surface. They work straight away without any rubbing or scrubbing and are hence recommended for exfoliating sensitive skin. The enzyme helps unblock congested skin. The same skin cell shedding also helps skin to age well. As it boosts the skin cells replacement cycle - something that slows down as you get older.

The results? Papaya enzymes boost cellular turnover and reduce pore congestion. They exfoliate the skin without causing signs of irritation and help to reveal healthy skin.

Papaya - Adaptology

PREBIOTIC

This scientifically tested prebiotic from chicory root helps balance and reinforce the human skin microbiota. A prebiotic is a fibre rich food used to feed healthy bacteria. Our skin is home to a rich, diverse ecosystem called the microbiome.

The microbes form a barrier layer or ‘microbiota’ that acts like a microscopic forest cover. Just as in the gut, these microbe friends have benefits, including keeping away harmful pathogens like the bacteria that cause acne. Prebiotics restore balance to reduce irritation, itching or dry skin.

The results? For one thing this prebiotic is proven to result in an 80% reduction in the P Acnes bacteria over 24hrs.

Prebiotic - Adaptology

PRICKLY PEAR

The Prickly Pear cactus evolved to keep its juicy interior intact in the harshest deserts on earth. It achieves this with a defensive lipid barrier. Applied to skin these oils provide hard-working anti inflammatory and hydrating properties. Evolved to ensure survival in places like Death Valley they work incredibly well when protecting skin from modern life stresses.

This extremogenic extract from the Prickly Pear desert succulent is soothing and calming to the skin, reducing signs of redness and irritation.

The results? Effective soothing. Increases skin firmness by 22%, also hydrates the skin by 17% thanks to the water binding ingredient present in the cactus.

Prickyl Pear Cactus - Adaptology

RESURRECTION PLANT

The Resurrection Plant takes hydration and cellular renewal to a new level. Living in deserts this hard fern allows itself to completely dehydrate. Only to spring back to life the next rainfall. Far from being a freak of nature, the Resurrection Plant is so successful that scientists describe it as a living fossil, dating back some 570 million years.

The biocorrectors that help the plant rehydrate, resuscitate cells and spring back to life have many similar benefits for skin.

The results? Hydrates skin by 49.5% in only 2 hours, supporting cellular metabolism, cellular vitality and renewal. It improves the appearance of luminosity and has an overall soothing effect on the skin.

Resurrection Plant - Adaptology

RHODIOLA

The arctic rose by any other name with its powerful adaptogen molecules to defend against extreme conditions at a cellular level.

Soviet scientists rediscovered Rhodiola (and other traditional botanicals like ginseng) - which they named adaptogens or адаптоген - as a powerful performance enhancing biohack given to athletes, cosmonauts and soldiers. Rhodiola was also the true Asterix’ potion, drunk as a heady brew before battle by vikings for strength, confidence and stamina.

Adaptology uses Rhodiola to boost cellular vitality, re energising the mitochondria powerhouses inside tired and ageing skin, generating a 30% improvement in colour uniformity and texture.

Rhodiola - Adaptology

ROSEHIP OIL

Rosehip - the fruit buds on rose bushes after flowering - has been used for its healing properties since ancient times. During WW2 children were given rosehip syrup as part of their rations.

Ours comes from the high Andes where adapting to the harsh UV and cold makes these plants especially hardy, and their protective botanicals correspondingly potent. Rosehip oil is rich in bio retinol (see Bidens Pilosa) which benefits ageing skin. As well as omega-3.

The results? Keeps skin nourished and hydrated, reduces the signs of ageing, clinically proven to reduce the appearance of scars.

SACHA INCHI PEPTIDES

Sacha Inchi is a trendy superfood, sourced from the Peruvian Amazon and packed with 17 times more omega 3 than salmon. Sacha Inchi peptide is an anti-aging ingredient clinically proven to decrease facial sagginess for a more contoured jawline, restructure & smooth skin, increase dermis density and reduce wrinkles.

Derived from an ancient Peruvian grain, it boosts firmness, reducing the appearance of wrinkles, leaving skin feeling toned for a more youthful and rejuvenating look. It is also high in omega 3 fatty acids which help moisturise and soften skin leading to wrinkle prevention

The results: proven to reduce skin sagging by 45% and decrease skin roughness more than 20%.

Sacha Inci Peptide

SEA BUCKTHORN OIL

Sourced from the frozen far North and packed with self protective botanicals. Arctic Sea Buckthorn is a bright orange berry that grows in the coastal regions of Eurasia from the Atlantic all the way to China. It thrives in salty and arid terrains where other plants can’t compete.

It’s widely used in traditional medicine, and no wonder as these are antioxidant powerhouses packed with omega 3, omega 7, along with 12 times more vitamin C than oranges, and more beta carotene than carrots. Sea Buckthorn oil has multiple benefits when applied to skin, hydrating, boosting elasticity and reducing redness and roughness.

The results: boosts skin elasticity by 25% and reduces the appearance of roughness, redness and irritation.

Sea Buckthorn Oil

VITAMIN C

Here’s the issue. Vitamin C is great for helping the skin fight free radicals, but it is water soluble and when applied to the skin very little gets absorbed, as skin is 50% oil.

Enter Vitamin C-tetra, the oil based form of Vitamin C that improves skin radiance without irritation. It is made by combining Vitamin C with a long chain fatty acid. The result being that it is easily absorbed deep into the skin.

The results: able to produce better results on the skin even if used at doses 25 times lower than those of standard Vitamin C.

Vitamin C - Adaptology

WILD INDIGO

Like many adaptogens Wild Indigo was used in traditional medicine. Native Americans used it for everything from treating snake bites to fevers. And like many adaptogens a key benefit is in combatting the effects of stress.

Stress in skin can cause inflammation and premature ageing plus skin greyness. Wild Indigo helps break down the cortisol from stress and also stimulates the release of beta endorphins which are calming neuro peptides.

And that’s not all, it also supports healthy collagen production, boosts luminosity and protects skin against damage caused by UV sunlight, pollution and chemicals.

The results? Improves skin colour in just 2 weeks by up to 187%, luminosity by up to 107% and reduces any signs of skin redness by 2.4x.

Wild Indigo